Hmmm…..Kandy Korn, Ambrosia, Cotton Candy, Honey Treat, Sugar Buns and Sugar Pearl.
I’m not making dessert plans, I’m planning a summer vegetable garden and these are the names of some of the corn varieties available. I notice lots of sugary sweet sounding vegetable names….makes me wonder what’s next….Festering Cavity Bell Peppers? Diabetic Coma Beets?
Supersweet varieties of corn have been around since the 1950’s when they were developed by the University of Illinois. However, it’s only really been since the 1980’s they’ve been gaining in popularity…. which is about when as a country our obesity rates began to skyrocket. Coincidence??? I’m not sure, though it has been readily observed that the American tastebud is much more primed for pure sugar these days. Perhaps this has carried over to veggies???
My question is: is this a bad thing? Does it really matter that some veggies are extra sweet?
Two thoughts come to my mind:
1. There are boatloads of evidence that show that folks who eat lots of fruits and vegetables tend to live healthier and longer lives. Quite a bit of this evidence comes from epidemiological studies. (Meaning that researchers follow a whole bunch of people, look at their lifestyle and dietary habits and then look for differences between the folks who got sick and those who didn’t). However, there is still quite a bit of investigation into the “whys”. If you follow health news at all, you likely have heard stories about naturally occurring chemicals in food (phytochemicals) that appear to contribute to better health. Some examples include resveratrol found in grapes and red wine and curcurmin in turmeric.
That said, there’s still quite a bit of investigation needed in this area. It seems plausible to me that the more naturally occurring variety we have in our fruits and veggies, the more access we will have to a wider variety of phytochemicals. Conversely, if we’re all eating the same variety of carrot (because it’s the best selling and the sweetest) over and over again, what are we missing out on from other varieties of carrots? Science is still trying to answer that question… stay tuned.
2. Science aside, I frequently wonder about what fruits and vegetables tasted like before mega-mile food transportation was the norm and people ate locally not because it was the cool thing to do, but because it was necessary. I listen to my father in law muse dreamily about the “Summer Transparent” apples that used to grow on a neighbors tree more than a generation ago. (When I Google “Summer Transparent Apple” I get nothing) My own father goes respectfully reverent when talking about his grandfather’s fruit trees. Somewhere in his 60-something year old body is a boy who loved nothing better than to trawl those treetops in search of the perfect plum. European immigrants, my great grandparents grew their own heirloom varieties of fruit: peaches, plums, apricots. I read MFK Fisher and wonder what the fruit emitting “opulent fragrance on the screened porch”* must have tasted like in her early 1900’s childhood. Better? More authentic?
For those reasons and because I like to challenge myself to be a more adventurous eater, I crave more diversity in fruits and veggies than what the grocery store offers. The Farmer’s Market is an awesome resource which I use frequently, but this year, I’m trying an experiment: I’m planting all heirloom vegetables in my garden.
I really want to know what certain vegetables actually taste like, not the hybridized-for-maximum-growth-and-sweetness variety, but the old timers, the heirlooms. In his fabulous book Blithe Tomato, author/farmer Mike Madison talks about his own experiment in growing heirloom grapes for his market customers. He laments that the ubiquitous big seedless flame grapes, available in the summer months are “crunchy sugar water” with little actual grape flavor. Unfortunately, they didn’t sell all that well despite the outstanding flavor. He reasons that was because of the seeds (no one wants seeds!!! They’re bothersome) and also perhaps the flavor, not sweet enough, too complex, too much work to eat.
I’m ready to work a bit harder for my food. I can’t help but think a healthier life just may be ahead. Stay tuned.
If you want to grow heirlooms here are some resources:
*From “The Measure of My Powers” by MFK Fisher. An essay which can be found in her book The Gastronomical Me
I love to write about food, hence the blog. I also love reading the words of truly talented food writers. “Truly talented” in my opinion means going beyond recipes: I crave the works of writers who make me see, smell, feel and taste the food just with their words. This is the type of writer I aspire to be. 

