• 21Jul

    We have been eating quite a bit of fresh sweet corn on the cob over the past few days since it’s beautifully in season. There are zillions of “spreads” I could drizzle my corn with, but I know if I truly want to enjoy my corn as it deserves to be enjoyed. I MUST USE REAL BUTTER!! There’s just something about the lightly sweet creaminess on the crisp corn. I’ve been using compound butters lately. They are full flavored, so you don’t need too much. Here’s a recipe to try:

    Summer Herbed Butter
    1 stick unsalted butter
    1 tsp minced shallots
    1 tsp each marjoram, basil and chives, chopped

    1. Allow butter to come to room temperature, place in a small bowl
    2. Add all ingredients and mix together until incorporated
    3. Serve immediately with a platter of fresh cooked corn on the cob, add salt and pepper as desired.
    4. Butter can also be refrigerated until needed.

  • 21Jul

    Every once in a while, as I’m cruising through my life, I see an article or class description with the name “Kids in the Kitchen”. In fact, years ago I myself wrote a series of articles for a local newspaper with this very title. I don’t think many people will argue with the idea that it’s good to teach kids the basics of cooking before they leave home. After all, those who do not cook are left at the mercy of others to cook for them. Unfortunately “others” frequently means fast food, takeout and pre-prepared convenience foods. So teaching kids basic cooking skills is important in helping them develop healthy lifelong eating habits. But lately as I think about this more, I realize that this is only part of the equation. The other part is helping kids acquire food knowledge and the ability to identify quality ingredients. This is because it’s truly difficult to create really good food (or a good diet) without good ingredients.

    My son grating Parmigiano Reggiano for Pesto

    My son grating Parmigiano Reggiano for Pesto

    As an on and off caterer in past years, I’ve had some incidents that have made me wonder about how well prepared kids in general are to provide good, healthy food for themselves. Consider the following incidents:
    Incident #1: I was grating a fresh block of Parmesan cheese (Parmigiano-Reggiano) to garnish a salad when I noticed the client’s kids had gravitated my direction. They were silently fascinated at the feathery light wisps coming from my Microplane grater. Eventually one kid piped up and wanted to know what I was doing. I explained I was grating Parmesan cheese on the salad. Both kids eyes widened in wonder as they relayed to me that a) they thought Parmesan only came from a shaker can and b) they weren’t aware it was a cheese. Dumbstruck, (I guess I assumed this was common knowledge), I gave each kid a small shard from the wedge. I swear it had to be like Columbus discovering America.
    Incident #2: I was whipping fresh cream to top the silky chocolate mousse cups I’d just made. The 9 year old daughter of the client approached and was riveted as I processed the liquid cream to frothy, sweet decadence. I explained what I was doing and she was shocked. She thought whipped cream only came from a tub or a squirt bottle. When I was finished I gave her one of the beaters. I watched her eyes widen as she tasted the cream and then…..that child ran off with my beater!
    Incident #3: I was shopping for food for a client and brought several different items of produce to the checkout counter. The young (probably 17-18 year old) clerk was a bit ruffled at the variety of items I had. She picked up the first vegetable with a very confounded look on her face. “What IS this?” she asked. The vegetable that stumped her? A green bell pepper.
    This has made me ponder two questions:
    1. How do we take our kids from here (processed cheese food) to there (Parmigiano-Reggiano)?
    2. It seems like a lot of work, should we bother?
    Since I’m taking the time to write this, I obviously think it’s important to bother with….which answers question #2. Question #1 is harder and unfortunately I know I’m not going to have a popular answer, because it’s more involved. The word “involved” here means “work” and generally we Americans aren’t in the habit of having to work too hard for our food. We don’t have to. We are awash in convenience foods that take much of the work away. Unfortunately, convenience foods come with a steep price. As Marion Nestle points out in her book What to Eat, the more convenient a food is, the more we eat of it, and the more we eat of it, the fatter we tend to be. So to readdress question #1, we could call “here” the diet of least resistance and “there” the diet that demands us to be more active and knowledgeable in our food habits. So which side do you want to be on? If you want to get “there”, here are a few things to chew on:
    1. Don’t be afraid to work a bit harder for your food, check out a Farmers Market or local farm stand. Take your kids along; give them some cash to spend on something they’d like to try. Each visit, buy something you don’t recognize, ask the grower about it. Take it home and try it. Check www.localharvest.org to find farms and markets in your area.
    2. Buy real food. Look at the ingredients, if there’s anything there you don’t recognize, put it back. Get your kids in on this, read the labels with them.
    3. If you’re adventurous and have the space, try your hand at gardening. It doesn’t matter where I live, I always have pots of herbs growing….which my husband likes to refer to as my “pot garden.” Check out The Moosewood Restaurant Kitchen Garden book by David Hirsch for ideas. Have the kids help figure out what to plant and how to use it. As an aside, I gave my then 2 ½ year old son two pots, soil and seeds (chive and basil). Several weeks later he was proudly harvesting his “chives and basils” and eating them as well.
    4. Kids can’t experience things that parents don’t bring to the table. Make some time to prepare meals as a family at home.
    5. Baby steps are the order of the day……
    Despite my negativity in the beginning of this entry, I do see some glimmers of hope. I see it in the 9 year old girl in our community garden excitedly telling me about her family making their own chicken stock. I see it in the faces of the junior chefs proudly presenting cooking demos at a conference I went to recently in Detroit. I also see it in my own son who drops whatever he’s doing to come running across the house at the sound of my pepper grinder. “Mommy! I want to do it!!!”
    As I watch his grubby three year old hands clumsily grapple with the grinder, I smile to myself and think that there is hope after all.

  • 17Jul

    I think one of the greatest pleasures of summer is found in the fruit. I wait all year long for a really good peach. Last year, the apogee of my peachlust was unapologetically celebrated on the steps of the San Francisco Public Health Department. As I schlepped my way along the tables of the Farmers Market that day, I found my olfactories being caressed by the luscious perfumed tendrils of groaningly ripe peaches. After a bit of excited sniffing, I discovered the guilty party was known as the “Ryan Sun Peach”.
    Now, I could purchase my peaches anywhere as there is no shortage of these stone fruits in the summer. But I much prefer to buy my fruit fresh from the farmer. Why? Because peaches are one of those sensuous fruits that easily give away their desire to be eaten by the way they smell. The more ripe they are, the more “peachy” they smell. Each summer I see boatloads of peaches in grocery stores that are absolutely gorgeous, but they smell like nothing. If I’m buying directly from the farmer, generally I know the fruit hasn’t been off the tree all that long. I also know that there is a much greater chance that the fruit was picked when it was truly at its peak ripeness. And…..I can smell the difference. Smell is so inextricably tied to taste that in my opinion an exquisitely beautiful but unscented peach is just not worth my time. Harvesting a peach before it develops its perfume robs the consumer of an entire dimension of the experience. It’s kind of like serving Cabernet Sauvignon on ice, you do about 80% of the wine “tasting” with your nose, if its so chilled you can’t smell it, why bother?
    This is not to say that good peaches cannot be found in the supermarket, but in my experience, it’s harder. First, I find that grocery fruit is usually chilled which makes it really hard for me to smell it. Second, many times grocery peaches need to be harvested before they are at peak ripeness so they can get to the store before they are spoiled. Yeah, I can ripen my grocery peaches at home in a paper bag, yada, yada, but…. it’s just not the same. Finally, I don’t get to talk to the farmer who actually grew it. A farmer with a peach orchard is more likely to have different varieties of peaches throughout the season that I’m just not going to find at the store. Stores are usually limited in the varieties they carry because they need fruit that holds up well as they go through the “middleman” process. In a grocery store, you may find 3 or 4 varieties of the hundreds that exist. I can assure you that there are some real beauties out there that are just too fragile for the middleman but are more than worthy of gracing my palate.
    After collecting my half dozen from the farmer, I had every intention of taking these beauties home to enjoy, but I didn’t make it any farther than the steps of the Public Health Department before I succumbed. There I sat making a messy, juicy, sticky spectacle of myself, but I just didn’t care. It couldn’t be helped, everyone should be so lucky.

  • 10Jul

    More than 20 years ago, I fell in love with a cool, smooth Greek. Now, if you’re expecting a tale of sultry Hellenic interludes, I’m afraid I will disappoint here because I am referring to Greek yogurt. At that time, all my palate knew about yogurt was that it was sugar sweetened, gelatin stabilized and unnaturally colored. So where was I when I made this discovery? In London….of course. You see, at the time, I was a hungry, scrubby, just-off-the-boat, backpack wearing, Eurail jumping, youth hostel crashing, college student wandering around Europe for an undetermined amount of time. Short on money and long on taste buds, I’d happily eaten my way through France, Italy, Germany and Switzerland….and then I got to England. Now, before I continue, I have to say that my travels occurred well before the more recent (and welcome!) rise of the “Gastropub” and resurgence of quality regional cooking in England. I’d eaten my way through mushy Quiches, tasteless pasties and pallid produce. One evening, trawling the grocery for SOMETHING to eat, I came across a carton of “Ski Cool” Greek yogurt….and my love affair started. Once I got back to the U.S., I tried straining plain yogurt and adding fresh honey or fruit, but it just wasn’t the same. Nowadays, I’m finding it much easier to get the real stuff, and….while I’m not positive, I think my husband might be a tad bit jealous.

    Try this for breakfast:
    1 cup plain Greek Yogurt
    1 Tbsp honey- any variety you like
    1/4c. each toasted walnuts and granola
    2 chopped fresh apricots (though dried will do as well)

    Drizzle the honey over the yogurt and add the nuts, granola and fruit on top. The honey and apricots add wonderful floral notes, the same effect can be achieved by adding fresh fig instead of the apricots.
    Enjoy!

  • 02Jul

    I’m aware that the name of my blog may suggest some lingering disapproval of iceberg’s place in the pantheon of vegetables. But the truth is, I love this pallid sister of the lettuces and I’m not afraid to say that…really. Even though in snobby foodie circles, admitting such a thing could be considered akin to confessing you pick your nose.

    So how did this happen? How did iceberg become such a pariah? I can’t say for sure, but I have my own ideas.  I think iceberg has sort of an identity problem. It’s thought of as a food that has little or no nutrient value and one that people with immature or unsophisticated palates eat. This is the same label bestowed by highfalutin wine drinkers on those who dare to admit they like White Zinfandel.

    I do not agree. First of all, I have an issue with food snobbery altogether, (though that is a post for another day). My argument is simply this: what iceberg does not bring to the table in flavor and color, it brings in pure crunchy texture. Like most whole, natural foods, when grown and prepared well, iceberg can really shine. Perhaps the highest culinary expression for iceberg is the fresh wedge salad dressed with good quality blue cheese.

    This wedge is done with an herbed vinaigrette

    This wedge is done with an herbed vinaigrette

    The worst? The dried out, slightly brown around the edges, roughly chopped, prebagged variety with a few desiccated, scabbed up chips of carrot and radish thrown in for variety. Not my idea of a good time.           

    Wouldn’t it be ironic to take this supposed low nutrient, pedestrian food and use it to improve the quality of your diet? Iceberg eaten alone doesn’t provide much culinary excitement, but pairing it with other higher nutrient foods (see tips below) can provide a great flavor and texture experience.  In his book, The Elements of Taste, Chef Gray Kunz states that crunch is to food as an explanation point is to the end of the sentence. It makes you stand up and take notice of what you are eating.

    Huh?

     When was the last time you really, really took notice of what you were eating?  (No, that Hot Pocket doesn’t count). I’ve said it before (see the Meals That Make You Go Wow post) the more aware we are about what we are really eating, the better quality diet we tend to have.  There you go.

    Now, for those of you ready to bravely step forward and declare your love for iceberg, here are a few tips for its care and handling.

    • Use it quickly! Like all fruits and veggies, it shouldn’t be left to sit around until the edges begin to look like burnt parchment. When you buy it, know how and when you are going to use it. (Incidentally, that’s a good rule for all vegetables). As a general rule, I try not to buy or harvest fruits and veggies that I won’t be using within 3 days. Exceptions are things like onions and garlic which keep longer.
    • Buy it in season. (Also a good rule for all fruits and vegetables). Salad greens tend to be at their peak flavor and nutrition during the late spring and early summer months.
    • Buy it local. Iceberg lettuce got its name because it was originally bred to survive the long trip cross country to market in a refrigerated boxcar. However, that said, fruits and veggies tend to be much fresher, crisper and flavorful the more local they are. It also supports your local economy. Visit the Local Harvest link on the home page to find local markets and sources in your area.
    •  Dress it appropriately, iceberg has a hearty, crisp texture. Because of this, it really needs a creamy or a thick, well emulsified dressing to stand up to it. A thinner oil and vinegar or fruit juice based dressing will just get lost and be wasted. Save the lighter dressings for lighter, softer and thinner greens such as mesclun or mache. Check the “Recipes” link (coming soon) on the home page for some homemade dressing and iceberg lettuce ideas. 
    • When using it in salads, boost the color, flavor, nutrient content and interest by pairing it up with sturdy ingredients such as sugar pea pods, fresh shredded carrots, olives, red onions, broccoli florets, bell pepper strips and other sturdy darker greens such as Romaine.  Also good is to add copious amounts of chopped fresh herbs, a few handfuls of finely chopped parsley does wonders for an iceberg based salad.
    • Beans add a creamy textured foil to the iceberg, try garbanzo or red kidney beans.
    • Add iceberg to dishes where a crunchy or snappy texture is desirable: like on a hearty sandwich.
    • In my humble opinion, it’s the best green to add to a burger because it beautifully retains its crisp texture so well in the face of the hot beef.
    • Prep it well. Remove the tough core with an oddly satisfying two step process.  1. With the core facing down, lift the head with both hands about 6 inches off a solid surface (say the nearest counter) 2. Smartly thwack it down against the surface. If you did it correctly, the core will easily pull out. This is guaranteed to impress your kids! (At least the first time). Remove the first and/or second outer leaves as needed. Cut as desired (shreds, wedges, etc) drench with fresh water and spin dry, or in the case of the wedges, wash and then place cut ends downward in a colander to drain out.
    • Enjoy!!!
  • 24Jun

    Ice

    I’m really picky about my ice. Now for me this is saying a lot, because generally I try hard not to be labeled as a high maintenance person as I go through my life. My husband always looks a bit puzzled as I routinely dump our ice bucket from the freezer every 4-5 days. He doesn’t say anything, but I know he thinks it’s probably some kind of dietitian sanitation ritual.

    But no….that’s not it at all. I’m trying to avoid funky ice. Specifically, I’m trying to avoid the subpar experience of garnishing my post workout glass of water with funktacular, partially dehydrated, beef stew laced ice cubes.  In my mind there is really nothing worse (though processed cheese food comes to mind) than being horridly thirsty after working out, practically dying for something cool to drink and have no choice but to use the mutant ice.

    Beef stew flavored ice???? Allow me to explain. Ice is really good at picking up other flavors in the refrigerator and freezer. The result is generally not terribly pleasant. Since I tend to cook with copious amounts of garlic, my refrigerator usually smells that way and alas…so does my ice unless I care enough to change it regularly. So since I am not lucky enough at this juncture to have a refrigerator that spits out ice on demand (which I think probably makes the issue less of an issue), I will continue with my dumping ritual.

    So I guess what I’m, really trying to say in this post is that I really think ice quality is important. Most of us need to drink more water anyway, so perhaps caring more about the ice that goes in that water will help us drink more.

    P.S. Incidentally ice cream also absorbs off flavors and should be consumed quickly to avoid this problem as well. Though truth be told, that’s not really the reason ice cream doesn’t last very long in my freezer. J

  • 17Jun

    When I was a teenager, my mom began taking me out to eat at some of the fancier restaurants in town. She felt it was important to introduce me to a style of eating that was beyond the macaroni and cheese and meatloaf type meals I was used to. One of these first outings was at a fine restaurant at an upscale local hotel. Looking at the menu I found several dishes I’d never heard of or was horrified at the thought of eating (snails, brains). Looking for something vaguely familiar I settled on a Filet Mignon with Lingonberry Sauce. I remember thinking the fruit/meat combination was weird but I figured I would just scrape the sauce off. But when the meal arrived I was just shocked. I’d never seen a plate of food look so gorgeous. The steak was beautifully grilled and juicy nestled in a pool of the deep reddish purple berry sauce. Tucked in around the steak were a variety of vibrant crisp-tender seasonal vegetables and baby red potatoes. The first bite didn’t disappoint either. The steak was extraordinarily tender, rich, beefy with hints of caramel resulting from the perfect grill job. The lingonberries further enhanced the dish by contributing sweetness that rounded out the other flavors. It was a drastic departure from what I was used to in a dining experience. It was my first “Wow” meal.

    Just about everyone can think back to a meal they’ve eaten at some point in their life as a wow experience. The wow meal is one that sticks in your head years after you’ve eaten it because it made you stop and take notice. The experience is different for everyone and it doesn’t need to be related to a fancy meal. It can be as simple as a perfectly roasted chicken or an exquisitely ripe, sweet orange at the peak of the season.

    I believe wow meals serve a purpose besides holding a distinctive place in our memories; they may help us eat more healthfully by helping us discern what is worth eating and what is not. I can eat buckets of pizza rolls and never have a wow moment for all the calories I consumed. Given a choice, I would much rather eat a small wedge of lasagna bursting with tomatoes, pungent cheese and spicy basil than a weight loss shake. I’ve yet to hear anyone who’s had a wow moment with a weight loss shake. This flies in the face of the “if it tastes good, it’s not good for you” idea but we all know how easy it is to eat large quantities of mediocre food without noticing. Wow foods slap you in the face and force you to notice. Well prepared and intelligently selected food remind us that cuisine is a form of art. This is easy to forget when we are so rushed that we settle for mediocre meals that fill the belly but not the soul. Wow foods encourage to eat more slowly, (which usually means you eat less) and leave you feeling more satisfied.

    There is no shortage of mediocre food in this country, but for those willing to try to cultivate a better way of eating, here are some ideas. There are a few great food combinations that always go well together, sampling these combinations can help educate your palate to the synergy that occurs between certain ingredients to produce the wow experience. A few of my favorites include beef and red wine stewed or braised together or fresh basil pesto sauce made with garlic, toasted pine nuts and freshly grated Parmesano Reggiano cheese. Learning to select excellent produce is also a key consideration. There is nothing that can beat a perfectly ripe fruit or vegetable. A good place to learn is from a knowledgeable produce manager at the grocery store or from the farmer who grew it as in the local Farmers Market. For the ultimate experience in educating your palate, try a class in French cookery. The French have mastered the art of the Wow experience focusing on simple but very well prepared foods rather than relying on exotic ingredients or recipes. The next best thing to taking a class is to consult Julia Child, her “Mastering the Art of French Cooking” which focuses on teaching techniques rather than recipes.

    I have yet to work up the nerve to try snails or brains, but I have come a long way from my humble meatloaf beginnings and my palate is much happier for it.